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Where's the Meat? The Case for a Fully Vegetarian Mangal

Where's the Meat? The Case for a Fully Vegetarian Mangal

Turkish grill culture has never been only about skewers of meat. From charred aubergine and ember-cooked onions to grilled cheeses and pul biber butter, the vegetables have always been doing the heavy lifting. Here is a vegetarian mangal menu that makes the point better than any argument.

Front-Row at the Fire: The Quiet Theatre of a Great Ocakbaşı

Front-Row at the Fire: The Quiet Theatre of a Great Ocakbaşı

A good ocakbaşı does more than cook lamb over coals. It turns the grill into a stage, the cook into a host and the whole room into a better-behaved table. Here is why that front-row seat matters so much in British Turkish restaurants.